Collar Remote
I'm looking for a remote training tool for my dog that is not a shock collar... like a spray thing, maybe?
I have a dog that is super fun-loving, to the point where if he has something in his mouth that could be dangerous (something sharp, something bad for him, etc) he will take off running with it and any attempt to try and chase him down seems like a game to him. It was suggested that I try shock collars, but since he's still a puppy and, while they seem humane, they just aren't for me, I was looking for an alternative. I was hoping for something remote-activated, so I could do it from across the yard, but something a little less... scary than a shock. Like, maybe that burst of water or air? Do they make such a thing? or something with a bad sound or smell, as long as it won't cause damage.
Any suggestions?
thanks!
Glad you don't want to use a shock collar on your puppy. I don't think any kind of collar device would work, either. Startling him when he has something in his mouth that could be dangerous sounds like a bad idea.
You really need to keep the house and yard puppy-proofed, so he can't get anything in his mouth in the first place. Make sure his toys are abundant, and rotate them, so you can always keep some of them seem new and interesting.
Then, teach him to voluntarily give up whatever's in his mouth:
1. W hen a dog has something he is permitted to have, that is either not edible (a toy) or takes a long time to eat (stuffed Kong, bully stick, etc.), give a teeny but very high-value treat.
Fine-tuning for this first step, for various situations:
- if the dog has a habit of playing "keep-away," set this game up in a very restricted space -- inside an x-pen together, in a small bathroom, etc. -- or, tether the dog.
- if your dog is very defensive, try to start with his having a “medium-value” object in his mouth, not a true treasure. You may need to be prepared to do this at a time when your dog has suddenly decided to pounce on a mid-value toy or chew.
- if the dog shows any doubt about letting go of what he has, just give the teeny treat and repeat that step many, many times. If and when the dog takes the teeny treat readily and without showing any concern over the original object, take the original object away.
- if the dog is defensive enough to growl, snarl or snap when people approach an object he is guarding, and is this way with all objects (in other words, there isn’t a lower-value object with which you can practice), just toss the teeny treats from a distance – even trusting enough to take his mouth off of the valued object may be a big step for him. Make sure you start far enough away and are quick enough that you toss a treat before the dog tenses up or growls, so you are not accidentally rewarding the unpleasant reaction. Then work up to coming closer, then touching the original treasure, than taking it away, as described above. However long it takes, that’s how long it takes – rushing it will only create more work and danger for you.
2. As soon as the dog notices the original object has been moved, give it back. Repeat a few times, then leave the dog with the original object. Repeat the whole sequence a bit later, and at another time during the day, if possible.
3. When that gets easy, take away the original object *before* giving an alternative treat (but with the treat on you and ready). Still give back the original object. Repeat quite a bit before moving on.
4. When that gets easy, take away the original object with no treat on your person -- have the dog follow you for a few steps to get a treat, then give back the original object. You can extend this to the dog needing to follow you further to get a reward and get their original object back (sort of reverses those awful games of keep-away!).
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